Export PST Contacts to CSV with Outlook

Export PST Contacts to CSV with Outlook

Step 1. Launch Outlook Application on your system.

Step 2. Import PST file into your Outlook Application.

Step 3. After Completion of import process. Click on File menu.

Step 4. Click on Open and export then select Import/Export.

Step 5. Select Export to file and then hit Next button.

Step 6. Make sure Comma Separated Value is selected then click on Next button.

Step 7. Select contacts folder from imported PST account and again hit the Next button.

Step 8.  Click on browse and then select saving path along with file name.

Step 9. Hit the Next button and then Click on Finish.

Done, this is how you can export PST Contacts to CSV format using Outlook Application.

Wireless Printer Troubleshooting

Wireless Printer Troubleshooting

Few things are more frustrating than when you want to print a document, and your wireless printer is in an error state, or gives you the silent treatment. Perhaps you’ve tried to connect your WiFi printer to the network in your home, but the problems persist, leaving your printer stubbornly off the grid.

Ideally, a wireless connection should allow you to transfer documents easily from your device to the printer, but it’s not always that simple in reality.

Knowing how to troubleshoot wireless printer issues can relieve some of that frustration. We’re going to cover some fixes that’ll help you work through most of them below.

Troubleshoot Wireless Printer Problems

• Check the basics.
• Set your printer as the default printer.
• Restart all your devices.
• Run the Printing Troubleshooter.
• Check Router settings.
• Update router firmware.
• Disable VPN connections.
• Make printer IP address static.
• Check Firewall Settings.
• Change your SSID.
•  Uninstall and reinstall printer driver and software.
•  Uninstall and reinstall the printer.
• Clear and reset print spooler.
• Reset your printer.

Check The Basics

It’s possible to overlook some basics so here’s what to check for before moving to advanced steps:

1. Make sure the printer is on or that it has power.
2. Connect your printer to your computer or other device
3. Check the printer’s toner and paper, plus the printer queue. Sometimes a print job with an error may hold up the line, the travel time for files from your device to the printer may take more time, or a larger document may take longer to download and process.
4. Check for any warning lights or error messages on the printer.
5. Make sure it’s connected to WiFi.
6. Use a USB cable to connect and see if it works again.
7. Move your printer to where it gets the best WiFi signal without interference. Ideally, it shouldn’t be too far from the router.
8. Confirm that your device is also on the right network especially where there’s a WiFi range extender as this creates separate networks, making it harder to connect.
9.  If you recently updated your browser, security software, operating system or firewalls, it could cause issues connecting to your printer. In this case, reconnect your device to the network, reconfigure security settings to include printers, and/or install updated drivers.

You can also perform a System Restore to go back to the default version or settings and try connecting to your printer again.

Set Your Printer As The Default Printer

It’s possible that you’re trying to connect to a WiFi printer that has set itself as the default. Sometimes a printer may install software that has a “virtual” printer so that when you hit the Print command, the virtual printer saves the file instead of the actual document you’re sending to the physical printer.

1. Click Start > Control Panel > Hardware and Sound.

2. Click Devices and Printers.

3. Right-click your printer and select Set as default printer. Click Yes (or OK) to confirm the action.

Restart All Your Devices

A restart helps fix any software glitches that could cause your wireless printer and connected devices not to work properly together. The wireless printer, router, computer/other device, wireless access point and modem all rely on your home or office network in order to connect to the internet.

However it’s configured, if one device acts up, it may affect all the others. A restart can get the network humming again, after which you can try the printer to see if it works.

Run The Printing Troubleshooter

1. To do this, open Control Panel > Hardware and Sound > Devices and Printers.

2. Right click the printer icon and click Troubleshoot. The printing troubleshooter to identify and fix problems connecting to your printer.

3. Alternatively, go to the search box on the taskbar and type Printing problem in, and then select Run Troubleshooter to download the printing troubleshooter. Click Open and follow the on-screen instructions.

Check Router Settings

If you replaced your router recently, you may have to reconfigure the computer and printer to reconnect with your network.

The new router may have a different ISP address that needs reconfiguration, and adjustment of router settings, some of which may be unsuitable for your wireless printer.

1. To check router settings, open your browser and type its IP address and press Enter. If you’re not sure of the IP address, read our post how to find the IP address of a router. You can try using admin as the username, and password as the password, which are the commonly used default passwords for routers.
2. Find the Wireless or Security section and adjust the settings to default for the printer to connect.

A few things you can check in the router settings include:

• MAC address filtering – disable it as it really doesn’t make your network secure.
• Check if your router is in the 2.4GHz frequency band, which most wireless printers easily connect to compared to connecting to the 5GHz only mode.
• Use a WiFi channel that’s least used by other local networks. For printers that aren’t connecting, channels 1, 6, and 11 usually work best, instead of the default “Auto” channel selection setting.
• Disable wireless isolation mode setting and try connecting to the printer again.
• Enable DCHP to allow your printer to acquire an IP address and communicate over the network, and attempt reconnection.
• Check that your router, device or printer has a guest connection, as this isolates them from other devices on a network, and prevents your wireless printer from connecting.

Update Router Firmware

If changing the router settings didn’t help, update its firmware to address bugs or vulnerabilities and connectivity issues. 

For example, moving to Windows 10 from a different version could create an interruption to your connection, which a firmware update could solve.

Check your router’s manual or consult the device manufacturer for further instructions as the steps may vary with different routers. Some may also require special instructions to connect to wireless devices, especially those provided by ISPs.

Disable VPN Connections

If you’re using a virtual private network to connect securely to a remote network, it could restrict you from printing through your WiFi printer. This happens for security reasons, but you can disable the VPN connection and try to connect to the home network and resume printing functions.

Make The Printer IP Address Static

IP addresses can fluctuate in a particular range, whether or not your device remains in the same spot. This can be confusing especially where several devices are attempting to connect wirelessly over a given duration.

In this case, check your router’s manual for instructions on how to set a static IP address for your printer so that it won’t change with time.

Check Firewall Settings

Your device’s firewall is designed to block any attacks from malware, but it could also block network settings for printing. It could be overprotective of your device depending on how it’s configured, and won’t let it see your printer over the local network.

Firewall settings vary though, in which case you should check the user guide or vendor’s website for support resources.

Make sure you keep your software up-to-date, set firewall settings to medium or “Trusted Zone” where your device is connected to a network, and enable it to show all alert messages.

Check that you don’t have multiple firewalls enabled at once as this causes several wireless printer connection issues or you may find your wireless printer not printing.

Change Your SSID

Changing the name of your WiFi network (SSID) may solve connectivity issues. If there are multiple routers with a similar SSID like Home, you can change one of them to make it recognizable by your printer and resolve connectivity errors due to drops in connection or incorrect wireless connection.

Doing this means you have to reconnect a computer system or compatible devices to the right network that the printer is connected to.

Uninstall & Reinstall Printer Driver & Software

This involves reinstalling or reconfiguring your printer’s special network drivers.

1. Open Control Panel > Programs.

3. Click your printer’s name and then click Yes to confirm the action. Turn on the printer and go to the manufacturer’s site to get specific instructions for downloading and installing the drivers for your model. Once installed, follow the steps to set up the printer connection and try printing again.

You can also reinstall printer drivers using Windows Update, by clicking Start > Settings > Update & Security and click Check for updates. If an updated driver is available, it will download and install and your printer will use it.

Alternatively, use the disc installation software that came with your printer as this may help you install its drivers or check for driver updates.

What If The Printer Driver Doesn’t Install?

1. In this case, click Start > Settings > Devices.

2. Click Printers and Scanners and then click Print server properties under Related settings.

3. Go to the Drivers tab and check for your printer. If it’s there, you’re good to go. If not, click Add.

4. Click Next in the Welcome to the Add Printer Driver wizard

5. Click on your device’s architecture in the Process Selection box, and click Next.

6. Under Printer Driver Selection, click your manufacturer, select the printer driver, and then click Next > Finish. Follow the on-screen steps to add your printer’s driver.

Note: If no new drivers are available, contact the manufacturer and ask when they’ll be available. If your printer model is no longer supported, you can check with a printer in the same series for updated drivers as there’s a likelihood they’ll work for yours, with some loss of functionality though. 

It’s a long shot, but there’s not much to lose if it’s not working already.

Uninstall & Reinstall The Printer

Try to remove your printer and reinstall it to see if the connection will work for it to print again.

1. To remove the printer, click Start > Settings > Devices. Click Printers and Scanners and find your printer, click on it and select Remove device.

2. Reinstall the printer by clicking Start > Settings > Devices > Printers and Scanners. Select Add a printer or scanner.

3. Choose your printer from the list of available ones (including Bluetooth or printers connected to another computer and shared on your network) and click Add device.

Note: If you use an extender, wireless access points, or multiple routers with different SSIDs, ensure you’re connected to the same network so your device can find and install your printer. Print a test page to be sure it works properly.

Clear & Reset Print Spooler

The print spooler manages the printing process. If you find your wireless printer not printing, the print spooler could have a problem. In this case, clear the spooler files and restart the spooler service.

1. In the search box, type services and choose Services from the search results.

3. Click Stop > OK.

4. Type %WINDIR%\system32\spool\printers in the search box again, and then select %WINDIR%\system32\spool\PRINTERS from the search results. Delete all the files in that folder.

5. Type services and select Services. Click Standards tab, and double-click Print Spooler from the list. Click Start and in the Startup type box, select Automatic and click OK.

Reset Your Printer

This is a last resort solution when all other fixes have failed because it clears all your printer settings, including the WiFi login credentials in order to reestablish a connection.

Check your printer manual for directions on how to perform a factory reset as the steps vary by brand and model. The information may also be available online if you don’t have an owner’s manual.  

We’ve covered most probable fixes to wireless printer problems, if yours still won’t connect after going through each of these fixes, you can consult the manufacturer, return it to the store, or buy a new printer and start over.

USB4: What is the different for future USB

USB4: What is the different for future USB

The next great (and possibly confusing) version of USB is on its way. In early September 2019, the USB Implementers Forum (USB-IF) published the USB4 specification paving the way for blazing-fast USB connections comparable to the speeds of Thunderbolt 3

That Thunderbolt comparison isn’t a coincidence. Intel contributed the Thunderbolt protocol specification to the USB Promoter Group. (The Promoter Group is an industry organization charged with developing USB specifications, while the USB-IF advocates for the advancement and adoption of USB technology.)

When USB4 ports start showing up in laptops and elsewhere, it promises maximum speeds of 40 Gigabits per second (Gbps). That’s double the maximum of current USB 3.2 Gen 2×2. As with other versions of USB, USB4 will be backward compatible with USB 2.0 and up, and in some cases, those USB4 ports will even work with Thunderbolt 3 gear.

Unfortunately, Thunderbolt 3 isn’t mandatory. Some USB4 devices may omit it.

It sounds like a pretty good upgrade, but if there’s anything we can say about the people behind USB, it’s that they sure know how to confuse everyone. USB4 may be no different. Let’s dive in.

Multiple Speeds

USB4 won’t be just one single standard that you can expect to work the same across all devices. Instead, it will come in two different speeds. In addition to the potential for a maximum 40Gbps speed, there’s also a 20Gbps speed. If that wasn’t enough, there’s also a third option of 10Gbps in the USB4 spec. However, the USB-IF told us that this is simply a fallback speed to support backward compatibility. In other words, don’t expect to see USB4 devices limited to that lowest speed.

It’s currently unclear what the two major USB4 speeds will be called when they hit store shelves. Behind the scenes, the 40 Gbps USB4 speed is called Gen 3×2, and the 20 Gbps speed is Gen 2×2. Those are technical terms for device makers and not something for the signage at your local computer store.

The USB-IF says its branding guidelines will be announced in early 2020. At that time, “there will be a focus on clearly indicating performance levels to the general consumer,” according to a USB-IF spokesperson.

That’s good news as it’s confusing enough right now with USB 3.2, which comes in Gen 1 and Gen 2 and Gen 2×2 flavors. Yes, it’s pretty confusing.

Backward Compatibility

As with other versions of USB, this one is backward compatible with its predecessors. Specifically, USB 2.0 and up. That means if you have a USB 2.0 external hard drive for backups, you can still connect it to a USB4 port. To make that work, you’ll need an adapter to go from USB Type-A (standard USB) to USB Type-C, and our imaginary drive will still be limited to the speeds of USB 2.0.

Also, those USB Type-C cables you have right now are probably not going to be good enough for USB4. It will still support the older speeds, but if you want to see that transfer rate increase, you’ll need new cables and new gear.

Thunderbolt 3 Backwards Compatibility

The USB-IF says that USB4 can be backward compatible with Intel’s Thunderbolt 3, which also uses Type-C connectors. That makes sense since USB4 incorporates Thunderbolt 3’s specifications.  Thunderbolt 3 support is not mandatory for USB4, however. While Intel gave the USB-IF free use of the Thunderbolt 3 spec, it did not offer free use of the Thunderbolt 3 name.

Any device manufacturer that wants to advertise its USB4 ports as backward compatible with Thunderbolt 3 will need to be certified by Intel. That’s why Intel’s data transfer technology isn’t particularly widespread.

In practical terms, we don’t expect the situation with Thunderbolt 3 to change very much for PCs. You can forget about seeing official Thunderbolt 3 compatibility on AMD-based machines, for example—just like before USB4.

There will probably be a few Intel-based motherboards rocking USB4 ports certified for Thunderbolt 3, but for the most part, PC builders will rely on expansion cards to support Thunderbolt 3 devices.

Laptops are slightly different. Thunderbolt 3 isn’t widespread, but it is more common on clamshells than on desktops. Thunderbolt 3-capable laptops are popular for use with external graphics card docks, for example.

When it comes time to replace an old laptop with a new one packing USB4, the critical issue will be to make sure it supports your old Thunderbolt 3 gear. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to either dump your old peripherals or look for a laptop that does support the older standard via USB4.

Dynamic Bandwidth Sharing

One of the best parts of USB4 is that it’s going to pay attention to how much bandwidth devices need when they’re sharing resources. The most common example of this is if you’re running an external storage device and a display at the same time.

USB4 is smart enough to keep the frame rates high for the display while giving the external drive what it needs to transfer data.

USB Power Delivery Everywhere

All USB 4 devices will include USB Power Delivery technology (USB PD), which can deliver up to 100 watts of power through a USB port. The idea is to allow more than just the slow drip charging for phones through the USB ports on a laptop.

USB PD uses intelligent charging to make sure the device being charged gets as much power as the charging device can muster. The two devices will negotiate charging rates so that the charge is not too fast or too slow, depending on the device’s need.

One Type of Port

USB4 is supposed to be the port-sized revolution that makes USB more universal in everyday usage. Currently, we have a boatload of standard USB Type-A ports with data transfer speeds between, “I’m questioning my life choices” and “well, that wasn’t so bad.” Then there are micro-USB ports used mainly for charging on phones, and the new Type-C ports with more speed choices than a mountain bike.

This is all to point out that USB is a mess of cables and confusion. Since USB4 is sticking with the Type-C connectors, we may finally see a single type of port suitable for any sized-device, and a single cable connector for everything.

We wouldn’t expect that universal revolution to happen anytime soon, however, as laptop makers will likely continue to include Type-A ports in laptops to provide dongle-free backward compatibility to enterprises and home users.

Plus, even if Type-C eventually becomes universal, there will still be a ton of speed variations between the various flavors of USB.

USB4 Sounds Great, But When?

We’re not quite clear when USB4 will start rolling out. Device makers are usually willing to adopt new USB technologies relatively quickly compared to other standards, such as the currently lagging SD and microSD Express. We’re probably looking at mid- to late-2020, and possibly even 2021 before USB4 really takes off.

Type of USB Cable and difference between USB 3.1 and USB type C

Type of USB Cable and difference between USB 3.1 and USB type C

There's lots of different types and standards for USB these days, but what do they all mean? What's USB-C and what's USB 3.1

If you’ve spent time shopping or researching new consumer gadgets you will have heard about the new USB ports and standards. There’s USB 3.0 and 3.1, and then there’s something called USB-C, officially known as USB Type-C. You may be wondering what these are, whether they are the same thing, and what the difference is. How is USB 3.1 different from USB 3.0 or even 2.0? The USB, or Universal Serial Bus, is a port standard that has been around for nearly 20 years and is the most widely used. As there are so many devices that support USB, keeping up to date on the latest developments in this port, cable and standard is important.

There are multiple improvements in the trusty USB port we’ve been using for so long. I’m sure we’ve all had difficulty plugging in a cable or flash drive because we’ve had it upside down. The new USB Type-C cable and port is reversible, so there is no “up” or “down,” and you can plug it in either way. There are other new features in USB, too, like ultra-fast data transfer speeds up to 10Gbps, and up to 100W of power – enough to charge a laptop, and even adding an HDMI or DisplayPort video signal into a single cable.

The USB, or Universal Serial Bus, has been a staple in the electronics world since 1996, when its first iteration, USB 1.0, was released. This technology was pretty revolutionary at the time: it could move an ambitious 12 Mbit/s, which at the time was an extraordinary feat. Since then, USB has taken over the digital world. You’ll find it in desktops, laptops, phones, cameras, tablets, and even furniture, cup warmers, and plasma balls.

Since its original conception, there’s been a huge variety of succeeding versions. The most common is Type-A, which can be found in every variety of computer for the last 25 years or so. There’s also USB Type-B, which is most commonly found in printers. Now, there’s micro and mini variants of both A and B, in addition to 4 pin and 5 pin variations.

Different types of USB have different purposes, but are there too many? In an ideal world, we’d have one singular USB that encompasses all prior versions, but is this available? Well, almost.

Let’s take a look at the types that try to solve the problem of having too many options: USB 3.1 and USB Type-C (or USB-C).

USB 3.1 and USB-C, what's the difference?

The two newest versions of USB, 3.1 and Type-C came into production at around the same time in 2013 and 2014, because of this, many people often confuse them, considering them to be the same thing. However, they’re different in important ways.

USB 3.1 is a standard, in the same way that Types-1, 2 and 3 were the standards that came before it. In contrast, USB-C is a type, in the same way that mini-USB and micro-USB are different types (connector variations) of the USB standard. Put another way, if USB-C is a pipe, then USB 3.1 is one of the things that can flow through it. This also works with older standards of USB: you can have, for example, USB 3.1 flowing through a USB-B cable, or USB Type-2 flowing through a USB-A cable.

Like Types-A and B, the name USB-C somewhat describes the shape of the port itself.

USB-C is small, thin, and flat and is the same port at both ends. The format may be small, but the implications are big: USB-C promises to be the one cable that really can do everything, and that can eventually replace mini, micro, A and B.

USB-C is also unidirectional, which means you’ll no longer find yourself repeatedly turning the USB connector over until it finally fits. It’s also backwards compatible all the way to USB 2.0, and with the right adaptor, it’ll even work alongside A, B, Mini and Micro.

The future adoption of Type-C is very likely to be driven by the relentless need for smaller and thinner devices. And because USB-C's four data lanes transfer audio and video, it could finally do away with conventional 3.5mm jacks —whilst providing a superior digital alternative in the process. This is a switch we've already started to see in a number of new smartphones, though to some initial backlash and reluctance from those not yet willing to give up their beloved 3.5mm jacks.